Friday, December 18, 2015

Venice of The Orient - Zhenyuan, Guizhou




The ancient city of Zhenyuan (镇远) located at Qiangdong-nan (黔东南) in Quizhou has a history of nearly 2300 years since it was first found during Qin Dynasty (秦 255-205BC). It had been appointed as states military and political center for half of its history. The name Zhenyuan was given by a Song Emperor in year 1258, when the town was set to be a capital in district of Qiandong area for politics, military, economy and culture. Being a strategic spot and an important hub of  land and water communication in the past,  Zhenyuan played an important part in the route of southern silk road trades. It connected the central plains of China to Myanmar, India and countries in South East Asia through Yunan and West Guizhou.  The long historical background with mysterious ethnic cultures and picturesque landscapes have made Zhenyuan into a glamorous site.



Zhenyuan is mainly divided into two sections with ribbon-like Wuyang river (舞阳河)running zig-zag across it. The northern bank was known as Jiufu-cheng  (旧府城 The Old Government site)  and  Jiuwei-cheng (旧卫城 Old Fortification)  was referred to places at southern bank. From elevation or distance view, it is like a Taizi diagram. The two township were established during Ming Dynasty (1368-1628). The Ming's entrance gate and city walls till today still remained at site. And within its 3 sq. km old city area, there are nearly 200 heritage sites including old building structures, tradition living dwellings, wells, passage-lanes and river piers.



Zhenyuan was dubbed the name Venice of the Orient as like Venice, water is the key feature and spirit of this ancient city.



Wuyang River begins its journey at Wengan county (瓮安县谷才村) from central Guizhou, cutting over mountains and running through canyons and valleys, winding across the ancient city of Zhenyuan, heading north east to Tongren area (铜仁) and at last ending into Lake Dongting (洞庭湖) of Hunan Province. The 400km long Wuyang River was once in the history, the most strategically important water way in the states of Guizhou, Hunan, Yunan and places within central plains of China. And today, it remains its key position but in the sector of tourism.



Zhenyuan surprisingly is an unspoiled water town although it had a glorious past and marvelous scenery. Its sereneness and modesty make its guests comfortable and relaxing.



The arch gate of the old city.



The old banking building near the arch gate is a historical site that marks the glory period of Zhenyuan.



Our reservation in Zhenyuan was at the last moment cancelled as they did not have the permit to accept foreigners. It was so lucky that we managed to get a room in the reputable Shuncheng  Guesthouse at old city area, where places of interests are just around the corner. Further more, our room is provided with a spacious private balcony,  face to face in contact with Wuyang River.



A morning view of Wuyang River



River off Pier (大河关码头) was a sandy bay in the past. It was converted into a water terminal dock after Wuxi Bridge (舞溪桥)was constructed during Ming dynasty (1368-1628). The Qing Government (1644-1908) later set an immigration customs office here to collect tax and docking fees from vessels that passed through it. The pier became an important check points for all vessels traveling to and from Guizhou or Yunan. It was said that the tax collected from River Off Pier during Ming and Qing Dynasty was one of the top highest income of Guizhou.



River Off Pier was also known as The Pass of Stone Gate (石门关)as it was isolated between two mountains, Mt Shibin-shan (石屏山)and Mt Zhonghe-shan (中河山)facing each other at the opposite bank of Wuyang river, making it appearing as if a door.



River Off Pier offers the best view of the seven arch granite bridge Chusheng-qiao (祝圣桥).



Opposite River Off Pier,  there are six groups of structures with thirty five units of buildings at Qinglong-dong (青龙洞). All were constructed during Ming Dynasty in late medieval period.



The buildings of Qinglong-dong were built against the steep surface of precipice, entirely merged into its surrounding with rocky cliffs, old trees and giant creepers.



The complex of Qinglong-dong are such a gorgeous building groups that ingeniously and smartly combined Chinese architecture with the tradition building designs of Ethnic Minorities.









Strolling along its narrow back lanes is a way to explore the hidden beauty of the town.






The Ming-Qing buildings with its passage back lanes are not only study objects for historians but also an admirable sight for most of its visitors.



The great group of heritage fusion monuments complex in Qinglong-dong have various elements in Buddhism, Taoism and Confucianism which was mainly caused by the past history of Zhenyuan. Since long, the thousand years old ancient town had been a meeting venue of variant traders from all directions.



The elegant structure of Buddhist Zen Temple and its Scriptures Storing Halls in Qinglong-dong are more on the Chinese style architecture.



Qinglong-dong has been commented as a live museum of old architectures in Quizhou.



The beautiful sight of residential quarters that built against the wall of the rocky mountain facing Wuyang River.



The three storey octagonal Pagoda standing at the center of the 7-arched granite bridge of Chusheng-qiao (祝圣桥) was called Kuixing Pavilion (魁星阁) which means pavilion of the great star in studies. It was also commonly known as Zhuangyuan-luo (状元楼), a building for best candidate from an Imperial examination. It was said that Guizhou incredibly had two students gaining the top title in the Imperial tests, ten years after the construction of the pavilion.



The brass statues of Myanmar people and elephant were erected here in record to the incident of Myanmar envoys bringing along the tributes with his elephant team passing by here to China Royal capital. The Major of Zhenyuan eye-witnessed the incident in year 1876 during the reign of Emperor Guangxu in Qing Dynasty. It was said that since 13th century in Yuan Dynasty, Myanmar envoys had already know how to use this route when coming to pay respectful visit to China Emperors.



The terminal port of Mi was constructed in early Ming Dynasty. This was the place where the rice and other crops were unloaded and distributed to other parts of Guizhou. Most of the grains required for military forces as well as common residents, were supplied from Hunan, Hubei and Guangdong as mountainous Guizhou does not have flat land to do farming. It was so called Mi Terminal (米码头) as the rice market located just right in front of it.



Yumen Ferry Pier (禹门码头)is currently one of the boarding place to boat a cruise along the 36km stretch of Wuyang River where one can freely admire the breath-taking sights on its both sides. Yumen Pier was also named as Longmen, the dragon gate as in the past, it was the pier particularly for the scholars who had gained the titles in the Imperial examination to disembark when they returned from the Royal Palace. One can easily visualized the honor of it when read upon Song writer Wangzhu's (汪洙)old poem verses that written as "The Young Has His First Debut, With Triumph He Returns from the Royal Capital, Getting Through The Three Layers High Water Waves in Longmen, As An Explosion Thunder From the ground. (年少初等第,皇都得意回,禹门三级浪,平地一声雷).



The illustration and brief history of Zhenyuan were written in both Chinese and English language.



Both towns of Fu and Wei (府城.卫城)in Zhenyuan were built in accordance with its mountain topography with Wuyang River in between as their natural protective river moat. The Town of Fu standing under the peak of Mt Shipin-shan lies at the north bank of Wuyang River is comparatively more original as a heritage site. It covers a length of 1.5km only.



The town of Wei lying at the southern bank of Wuyang River is doubled the size of Fu and it looks more in order as many of the structures had been repaired and restored.



Both Fu and Wei towns were first established during Ming Dynasty (1368-1628).



The lovely little clay flute, beautiful handmade cloth bags, traditionally made snacks are rather attractive. The local brewed Maotai liquor and sour fish are its famous specialties that many visitors do not like to miss.



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