Sunday, December 27, 2015

Stories of Buddhist Old Zen Temples - Guangzhou, Canton



Hualin Temple (华林寺) at Jade Street in Liwan District of Guangzhou is called as Landing Ground of Dharma. It was the site where the great Indian Zen Master Rev. Bodhidharma first spread the Buddhism doctrines in China. The shrine was first built in Southern Dynasty (502-556) during the reign of Emperor Liang-Wudi shortly after the monk arrived Guangzhou in year 526. The temple was first named as Xilai Monastery meaning it was from the west. Xilai Monastery went through several repairs in the subsequent dynasties from 6th to early 20th century. The name was changed to Hualin in year 1654 after the renovation and expansion in Qing Dynasty.



Master Bodhidharma suffered three years of trudge in the sea voyage for the propaganda mission of Buddhism to China. He arrived Guangzhou in year 526 and soon traveled northwards to continue his missionary work. He seated and faced the wall to meditate for nine years at Henan's Song Mountains, and found Zen Buddhism in China. He made the Temple of Shaolin-si the cradle of Chinese Zen Buddhism that flourishes over the whole east Asia until today, with five lineages.



During China's 10 years cultural revolution, the entire Hualin Temple was occupied and converted to factories and many heritage was destroyed.  Bodhidharma Hall was re-constructed lately in 1990s to commemorate the great master. The golden image of Master Bodhidharma was seated on a pedestal in the middle of the hall with two drawings depicting his legend, engraved on the east and west walls.



The two lines of woodcut praising verses fixed on the stone column in front of the hall are reflective to great merits and achievements of the eminent monk.



Hualin is the oldest temple in Guangzhou but is relatively small in size and there is no Grand Shrine Hall at site.



The most impressive structure in Hualin Temple site, is its 500-Arahat Hall. It was constructed to face south in year 1851 during the reign of Qing Emperor Daoguang (1821-1861).






The 500 Arahat Images are enshrined on one meter high pedestals along the corridors by the east and west side of the Hall. A huge seated image of Meitriya Bodhisattva is placed at the center in front of the entrance door with Dharma Protector Deva Weituo behind it, facing inside. Deep inside the hall at the center are three huge adorable images of Buddha of the past, of the present and of the future. The Hall in fact also serves as the Main Shrine of Hualin Temple.



The 500 gold gilded images of Arahat are lifelike, each with individual pose and different expression. All are 1997's production sculpted in accordance to the Qing's illustration and relevant data, as the originals were completely destroyed during China's cultural Revolution.



The imposing image of Thousand hands and eyes Guanshiyin Bodhisattva is placed at the end of east corridor and golden Image of Dizang is enshrined at the end of west corridor. Unique image of Guanyin with multiple heads looks antithetic. It is very rare in other temples.



The causing legend of the 21 Buddha Relics of Hualin Temple was written on the board. It stated that when the 7 meters high white marble pagoda located at the front street of Hualin Temple was moved, people discovered a crypt at its central base and inside it there were 4 layers of caskets made from stone, wood, bronze and silver with indication. The written message informed that the inner silver casket contained 22 units of Buddha Sakyamuni's relic. It was present from Qing Emperor Kangxi (1662-1723) to Hualin Temple and were stored under the pagoda by the Abbot Rev. Yuan-hai. Relics that were fortunately safeguarded by the government during cultural revolution, were returned to the temple in 1996 but one was found missing. The lost heritage included a valuable thousand years old Asoka Pagoda.



Buddha's relic is the reliquary of Buddhism and is very rare on earth. Whoever pay homage to it would be free from illness and never suffer poverty for generations. I was told that the white marble pagoda that found with Buddha's 22 relics concealed in its crypt was moved and displayed at other place. The one that stands in front of the 500-Arahat Hall right now is a replica.



Hualin Temple hidden deep inside the Jade Street in the bustling and busy area of Liwan District, amidst in the jade stalls, is rather not too easy to look for.



Temple of Six Banyan Trees Liurong-si (六榕寺) is one of the four notable historical Zen Buddhist temples in Guangzhou. The Temple and its Relic Pagoda were first built in year 537 during the reign of Emperor Liang-Wudi (502-547) to enshrine Buddha's Sarira brought back from Cambodia by Emperor's uncle, Rev. Tansu (昙俗法师)。 It was then named as Baozhuangyan-si (宝庄严寺). The Temple had also gone through several repairs and renovations in medieval period during Tang and Song dynasty. Different name was given each time after restoration. It was once known as Changshou (长寿寺) then Jinghui (净慧寺) and finally Liurong-si. The Temple was destroyed by fire in early Song Dynasty but restored again in 1086. Relic Pagoda was rebuilt with thousand Buddha images enshrined in it. It took ll years to complete. The temple and pagoda till today preserved the Song architectural style.



The name Liurong which literally mean six banyan trees was hand written by the great literate Su-dongpo (苏东坡 960-1279) from Song Dynasty. In year 1100, when Su was on the way back from Hainan to the northern capital city, he visited the site and due to his fame, he was requested to write something for the temple. He was then so impressed by the vitality of the six Banyan trees at site and wrote down the two Chinese characters 六榕 (Liurong), which 300 years later, became the name of the temple (in 1411) and was engraved on the tablet hanged at the front entrance gate.



The 1400 years old Liurong Temple is very notable for its rich collection of cultural relics. We unfortunately came at the wrong time, when the main shrine hall and Thousand Buddha Pagoda where most of the treasure are kept, were closed for renovation and repair works. We could only pay homage to The 6th Patriarch Hall.



The Hall of Sixth Patriarch was restored in year 1913 and repaired in 1980.



The 1.8 meters high seated image of 6th Patriarch enshrined in the Hall weighs a ton. The posture and expression were based on the gold gilded mummified body relic enshrined in Temple Nanhua-si. This important treasure cultural relic of Liurong Temple was sculpted in year 989 during Song Dynasty. Enshrined in the hall is also a huge golden image of Indian Master Rev. Bodhidharma, who was considered the first Patriarch and founder of Chinese Zen Buddhism. The sect that widely spread over many Asian countries had developed into five lineages.



The unique Burong Pavilion (补榕亭) was built in early 20th in memory of Song literate Su-dongpo, during the time when replanting the 4 Banyan Trees at the original site of the old trees.



A white sculpture of Song great literate, Su-Dongpo was erected at the inner field surrounded by verdant Banyan trees. The original 6 Banyan Trees that impressed him left only two. The other four trees were replanted in 20th century.



The Thousand Buddha Relic Pagoda of Liurong Temple is sometimes addressed as Flower Pagoda due to its elegant unique structure. Since the last restoration in Song Dynasty in 11th century, it has been there for more than 900 years. The bronze mast at the top that weighs about 5 ton was cast in year 1358 during Ming Dynasty. During the time of our visit, the Pagoda, Main Shrine Hall and major heritage structures at temple site were covered up for repair works. We were rather upset for not having a good causation to view and pay homage to the enshrined thousand Buddha images, the sacred relics and related Buddhist cultural treasures.



Temple Haichuang-si (海幢寺) occupied an area of nearly 20 thousand sq. meters at Haichu District of Guangzhou City, had been an active religious service center as well as a scenic touristic area in the past. The ground was originally the site of an old shrine Qianqiu-si (千秋寺) from 10th century but later abolished and converted into residences. In Ming Dynasty (1368-1628) it became Guo Family's private garden. Temple Haichuang-si was first established in 17th century when two monks received a donation of land contributed by Guo's Family and with great support from Lord Pingnan-wang (平南王), it was developed into a reputable temple in 18th century. During its glorious period, Temple was expanded to a complex of 23 structures with premises extended to the surrounding farmland. The Monastery at that time was able to accommodate more than 300 monks and Abbots were mainly from renowned prestige great Zen masters. The scheme and size of Haichuang-si was three times bigger than the present.



In early 20th, the premises of Temple Haichuang-si unfortunately had to give way for road construction . The compound was forced to separate into two parts and many structures were have to demolish and tear down. And worst of all, it also suffered great destruction during China's ten years Cultural Revolution apocalypse. Heritage structures and Buddhist cultural relics of the temple were totally spoiled and destroyed. None of it was exempted. Most of the present structures including Main Shrine Hall, Heavenly King Deva Hall, Pagoda, Pagoda Assembly Hall, Scripture Hall, and Living quarter for monks, were gradually restored in 1990s. Number of resident monks remains only ten percentage of its peak period.



Enshrined in the Main Shrine Hall today, are three lifelike gold gilded Buddha Images, resembling Buddha of the present, of the past and of the future. The most interesting is about the tale behind its 16 Arahat images. It was said that Monk Daoji also known as Jigong ( 济公 1130-1207) in order to tease and lesson the arrogant Abbot of that time, manifested into a raged monk, coming for lodging. The Abbot reluctantly allowed him to stay a night and next day morning Daoji came to the hall with his two luggage on the floor. He asked the Abbot to help carrying them to Nanhua-si. Abbot was so annoyed and yelled at him to better ask the seated Arahat in the Hall to do it for him. Daoji did it and incredibly, there were two Arahat sculptures jumped down from the pedestal and help him to take luggage to Nanhua temple. The Abbot finally aware that Jigong was an enlightened Arahat but was too late. That was the reason why leaving in the hall today are only 16 Arahat images instead of the usual 18. The other two are now found enshrining in Nanhua-si temple, where instead of 500, it has 502 images now.



Temple Haichuang-si is nested in a lush of greenery with many ancient trees aged more than 100 years. The oldest and most legendary tree is the 400 years Manoranjini (鹰爪兰) which is also known as Ylang Ylang Vine. It is a kind of 2-3 meters tall shrub blossomed with fragrant yellow flowers, usually found on highlands in temperate and tropical zone. It was believed that the existence of tree was much earlier than the temple.



Standing by the east corner of the Main Shrine in Haichuang-si, is a little beautiful hexagon stone pagoda with Buddha image engraved at each side and bronze bell hanging down from each edge. It was built in year 1997 to contain relic and is named as Baoyan-ta (宝严塔).



Dafo-si Temple (大佛寺) is locating at the west end of commercial area along bustling Beijing Road. It was known as Xinzang-si (新藏寺) when it was first built during Nanhan period (南汉 917-971) in 10th century. Name changed to Longzang-si (龙藏寺) after renovation and expansion in Ming Dynasty (1368-1628). Temple buildings were later used as a government office but burnt down in year 1694. In 17th century, Lord Pingnan-wang (平南王) from Qing Dynasty restored the temple. Wooden material for the pillars, beams and wooden framing in Main Shrine Hall, were said to be contributed by Lord Annan-wang from Vietnam (安南王). The building area of Main Shrine Hall is about 12000 sq m and till today, the condition of its wooden framing are still maintained. Dafo-si flourished at its peak in 18th century and listed in the 5th position in Guangzhou's famous Zen Temples list .



Like many other old temples, Dafo-si also faced terrible damages and destruction during China's ten years cultural revolution. In 1990s, under the lead of its Abbot, Master Guangming (广明长老), Temple was restored with main shrine repaired in accordance to its original aspect. The three six meters high Bronze Buddha Images that weighs 10 ton each, were re-cast and re-enshrined in the main hall during restoration.



Religious activities in Dafo-si were resumed in 1986 after the cultural revolution, and 14 years later in year 2000, its modern and updated library of Buddhism which may be one and the only one in Guangzhou City, was also completed and opened to public.



Hanging at the entrance gate of Dafo-si is a pair of rhyming couplet written in Chinese as 大道有岸;佛法无边 meaning Pathway has shore, Buddha's Dharma is boundless.



Dafo-si is currently under great expansion as temple land that had been occupied or applied for other purposes during cultural revolution, were gradually claimed back and returned.



A majestic complex of Scripture Halls were constructed at the original site, shaded and surrounded by several old ancient trees. They appear as grandeur as hotel from outside.








1 comment:

  1. In the 1980s I visited a Zen temple in Canton twice. I understood that it was originally dedicated to the memory of the first Chinese Zen (Chan) patriarch. The first time I entered the central hall the temple, it had been turned into a natural history museum. There was a dinosaur skeleton in the middle of it and explanations about evolutionary biology. A few years later, I visited this site again. The dinosaur was gone. As I recall there was an exhibit of the restorations of Chinese traditional sites under the guidance of Mr. Zhou Enlai. Does anyone remember which of the temples it was that I visited? I cannot tell by looking at the photographs posted today. Many thanks if you could help me in this.

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