Tuesday, September 30, 2008

The Central Plain of Ancient States - Henan



Henan is the 4th province in my silk road journey. With its two ancient capitols, Luoyang and Kaifeng, it was a place of great prosperity in the past and high development at present. Huang River running across the state from west to east, fertilized the land as well as the civilization. Ancient Chinese believed that it was the center of earth  and named it as "Zhong Yuan " (中原) meaning central plateau . As per old saying "occupied Zhong Yuan possessed the world (得中原者得天下) reflecting how desperate the ancient 9 states kingdom were to fighting for this place. The historical ruins, remnants  and cultural heritage discovered and unearthed within Henan territories were dated to as far as 4-8000 years ago. It was proven to be one of  the places where Chinese early civilization originated and all Chinese are the descendants of  ancient Emperors Huang Di and Yan Di (黄帝炎帝).   Every year official grand worship ceremony in memory of these two great ancestors is held in Henan, participated by Government as well as private sectors, with guests invited from inland and abroad.



Dragon Pavilion (龙亭) is the site of imperial palace complex built during the dynasty of North-Song (960-1127). The name derived from the dragon playing with pearls engraved on the ceiling and walls of the building hall. It is a small scaled of Beijing Forbidden City. It covers 214 acres of land and its a favorable place to overlook the entire sight of Kaifeng City, which was one of the largest city in the world during 11th century. Being an ancient capital for 6 dynasties during the era of Five Dynasties and Ten Kingdoms period, Kaifeng was extensively expanded under the reign of North Song Dynasty and attained its high prosperous glory for nearly 200 years.



Kaifeng was made as the capital city of North-song Dynasty (960-1127) for 167 years since its founder Song-tai-zu Zhao-Kuanyin (宋太祖-赵匡胤 960-976) declared himself a King and ascending the throne after being put on a yellow robe by his fellow soldiers. The establishment of North Song Dynasty put an end to the chaotic turbulent situation of Five Dynasties and Ten Kingdoms era and the nation was again united under the reign of one Kingdom. There were only nine emperors on the seat of North Song Dynasty  as Kaifeng City faced serious attacks from Jurchen invaders. Most of the northern areas in China at that time were controlled by the strong Jurchen tribes. North Song finally fell into their hands and subsequently declined. Jurchen tribes later found The Jin (Tartar) dynasty and reigned China for 145 years (1115-1234.)



Kaifeng was one of the eight ancient capital cities in China. The Imperial Palace of Northern-Song Dynasty is the most scenic spot in Kaifeng City which was comfortably situated along the Grand Canal. The location was convenient for logistic supply but was militarily vulnerable as it sits on the flood plains of Yellow River. Though its prosperous bustling era had over for nearly 1000 years, it is still one of the most scenic sight in Henan worth for a visit. Ascending up to The palace of Dragon Pavilion, no one could afford to allow the attention to slip away from the magnificent view of Huang River and its branches meandering across the city. The imposing scenery unfolded entirely under your eyelid, was spectacular.



The 1000 years old bronze tripod which was once regarded as a sign of an imperial power in the past, is now an incense cauldron in front of the Main Shrine at Xiangguo Temple.



Xiangguo Temple (相国寺) is one of the most famous temples in China and was very favored by Imperial rulers during the splendor and prosperous period of Kaifeng City. Its Arahat Hall enshrines an impressive sculpture of Guanyin Bodhisattva with four images facing four directions completed with thousand eyes and hands in various gestures. The gilded statue was carved from a piece of single gingko trunk by a pair of man's hands. The great artisan used 58 years almost the whole of his life to produce this wonderful wood carving art marvel. Xiangguo Monastery was initially a holy Zen center for the practice of meditation but in early north song dynasty, it was greatly influenced by the fully commercialized atmosphere and people and converted into a trading place like other parts of Kaifeng. Making money at that time was more important than spiritual practices.



The Memorial Temple of Lord Bao (包公庙) is also another attraction place in Kaifeng as Black faced Lord Bao is a familiar legendary hero in all plays and operas for his fairness in lawsuits. His actual name was Bao Zheng and was a Government official in Northern-Song period. He fought against corrupted officials and imperial members to protect ordinary people from being exploited. Lord Bao was well known for its incorruptibility and uprightness. His iron law applied to all including government officers and royal members. Three capital instruments in front were used for different criminal victims . People imagined him into black face due to his severe punishment in his strict judgement.



Proudly standing in the morning mist at Kaifeng ancient capital city is the centuries old Iron Pagoda. It measures at a height of nearly 56 meters but it was reducing each year when water flooded in from Huang River sweeping in tons of sands and mud, covering its base inch by inch. The structure was built with colorful printed glazed tiles with exquisite carvings. It looks gorgeous and exclusively unique. Though some colors started to fade away, Buddha images can be vividly recognized on each brick. It had gone through thousand years of wind and fall, rain and shine, yet incredibly,  no signs of aging are found. It stands still straight and strong in this ancient city of Henan till today!



Iron Pagoda (铁塔), formerly named as Yonguosi Pagoda (佑国寺塔) was constructed in the year 1049 and is the oldest landmark in Kaifeng City. It is in Octagon shape and has a height of 55.8 meters with 13 storey. Construction material were mainly glazed bricks (琉璃砖) in multi colors of red, brown, blue and green. Bricks were carved with more than 50 symbolic designs of Buddhist devas (天龙八部). It has survived from destruction of war, floods and 38 times earthquake .



The iron Pagoda located by the side of the beautiful lake side of Tietai is an outstanding structure.



Some of the old structures had began to decline in condition. Bota Pagoda built during North Song period in year 974 is now partially damaged. The stone sculpture garden (石雕园) is a recent site of Kaifeng city .



Sandbank of Huang River(黄河沙岸) was formed by Piles of deposit and accumulated sand at the downstream of the river. In the past, it was known as River of Chu and Border of Han (楚河汉界). The boundary was the border where two strong states of Han and Chu were divided during 2nd century BC. It was a very important historical site in Chinese history. Liu Pang after defeating his enemy Siang Yu who finally committed suicide at the river bank, built up the empire of Han Dynasty and reigned the nation for more than 400 years.



Boarding onto a hovercraft to cruise the downstream portion of Huang River. Hovercraft which was able to sail over land and water was supported on a cushion of air made by jet engine.



Huge stone sculptures of Chinese ancestors Huang-di and Yan-di are visible from far distance.



Peony was named flower of the most dignity in the country as per legend saying it was the only flower that refused to please the lady Emperor, Wu Ze Tian (武则天) and accomplish her order to go against the nature and blossom in the winter as what other flowers did. Due to this, Peony was expelled to Louyang of Henan, where it widely flourished. Peony flower exhibition is organized every year in Louyang. The pomegranate tree (石榴树) prosperous with yellow fruits can be met any where in the city.



Living style of modern Chinese is now entirely not the same as in the past. Many well known seafood restaurants supplied luxurious food like shark fin, dried abalone, scallop as what they displayed at the front show case and sources of customers come from locals.







Monday, September 29, 2008

The Influences of Buddhism - Henan



Buddhism actually had tremendous influences over Henan, this east province of China. The White Horse Temple in Louyang was the first Buddhist temple built in China and its Longmen Grottoes was one of the most precious treasures among the world heritage marking full glorious period of Buddhism in China during Tang Dynasty. The old temple, Shaolin Shi, world famous martial art learning center , today still is a Buddhist monastery for monks to practice Dharma.



The carving of Avatamsaka sages on a huge stone wall was one of the most wonderful piece of work in Longmen Grottoes. The face of Buddha was carved basing on the feature of the first Lady Emperor Wu-Zetian (武则天). The other great jobs include the sculpture of Buddha Amitabha. All crafted Buddhist images were innovative and each piece had its diversified uniqueness.



The carving of colored flying Deva at the stone ceiling with indication of period and signs of year is incredible.



Longmen grottoes are one of the most precious heritage in the world but it is very sad to see that images at many grottoes were either pilfered away or destroyed during China's cultural revolution under Mao's reign between 1967-1977。






The entrance of the great Luoyang Longmen Grotto.



Every one was sick but determination to pay homage to Longmen Grottoes made us moving forward.



Shao Lin Temple (少林峙) situated at the foot of Song mountain (嵩山) is a Buddhist sacred monastery. In early times, monks were thought and practiced martial arts, merely for self protection and health purposes. Such exercises becoming famous in world was entirely not expected by Master Patriarch Bodhidharma and all his disciples. Today Shaolin Temple is more popular for its Kungfu learning than practices of Buddhism.



Song Mountain where Shaolin Temple situated is lying in the heart of Henan Province. It is one of the Five Great Mountains in China and it is usually called as Zhongyue which means Central Range. Its 72 ranges around the peaks extended to about 70 km in length. Song Mountain is the birthplace of Zen Buddhism and home to many wondrous Temples, in which Shaolin-si was the most established and famous.



An Image of Master Patriarch Bodhidharma in black was engraved at a huge rock placed at the entrance. Shaolin Temple attracts and greets millions of visitors or pilgrims from all parts of the world every year.






Hitting drum accrue merit as it signifies the daily commencement of Temple activities including Kungfu practices in all categories. Training and practicing basic kungfu foundation at the foot of Song mountain in Shaolin premises, are major parts of the daily life routine for teen-aged students coming from locals and abroad.



Shaolin Monastry is not only a world well known center for learning Dharma and martial arts but also a place of attraction for all visitors to China. The young students with bright orange robe, gathered at entrance getting ready for performance to welcome President of China Mr Wen Jia Pau with his foreign guests.



Image of Patriarch Bodhidharma, the Indian great Dharma Master who faced wall for 10 years at Song Mountain, without uttering a word, established the Zen lineage (禅宗) of Shaolin Temple at early 6th century. Luohan murals (罗汉图) is one of the artifacts of Shaolin-si displayed in the shrine hall.



Main Shrine Hall of Shaolin Temple is adorned with decorative ornaments  and the groups of stupa in Pagoda Forest at the foot of Song Mountain are unique. Stupa is a resting place for Shao Lin monks or Dharma masters.  They were to be entombed and enshrined in Stupa after nirvana.



The modern structures within the premises of Shaolin Temple.



These two ancient Chinese calligraphy (忠义) pronounced as "zhong yi" which means faithful and loyal are two very specified character required by an ancient Chinese. It is displayed at the front part of Quan Lin temple where the head of Quan Gong being chopped off and separated from body, was buried. The red face Quan Gong was the popular warrior in the The Three Kingdom history. He is a typical symbol for faithful and loyal character till to-date, many Chinese businessmen still worship him for his great conduct.